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efrenchy
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« on: April 21, 2012, 05:51:46 PM » |
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« Last Edit: April 22, 2012, 02:39:09 AM by Astrecks »
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efrenchy
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« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2012, 09:18:54 PM » |
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Now I'm wondering where I would get stainless steel mesh. What it is used for would help!!!
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gaffer
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« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2012, 09:22:32 PM » |
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i am wondering if you are supposed to put the wick all the way down into contact with the coil or not. i know you oxidize it so it "doesn't conduct" but i haven't seen if you are supposed to actually put it to the coil or leave a gap still
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cyborg
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« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2012, 09:31:34 PM » |
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Gently push it down onto the coil, works for me
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YOU WILL BE ASSIMILATED 
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gaffer
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« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2012, 09:39:01 PM » |
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^^^ awesome, i really want to try this, just need to procure the mesh. Its just 400 size mesh stainless steel right?
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RichJr
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« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2012, 01:09:09 AM » |
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I will try this on my older atty.
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Rich (tech guru)  I do everything with my iPhone. Meep Meep
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Osmo
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« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2012, 01:29:34 AM » |
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gaffer
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« Reply #7 on: April 22, 2012, 01:35:54 AM » |
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thans Osmo, i found some from McMaster Carr here, i think it is the same (same size listed for all the specs) it is a 304 SS alloy which seemed to be the most common mesh when i was looking. It was a 12 inch by 12 inch sheet for $21 USD so my head math tells me that is right about the same price per area.
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efrenchy
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« Reply #8 on: April 22, 2012, 02:06:35 AM » |
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Well it did say 400 and I think that will last you forever! LOL
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Tango
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« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2012, 04:12:43 PM » |
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Wah hey team, think we are onto something. 400 mesh is essential. Re-wicked 5 C-Atties and 3 T -Atties. I have been using the same 2 re-wicked C-atties for 9 days. Juice thru each one has been 30ml approx. No darkening of the juice in tank and no burning. Had 1 coil failure with a T-atty and guess what, re-used the S/S wick in another cone. Perfect. S/S appears to be the saviour of us tankers. I am back in love with my Ego-C, scrub all my negative stuff
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efrenchy
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« Reply #10 on: April 22, 2012, 06:01:16 PM » |
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Tango are u in the USA? If so where did you get your mesh. Thanks
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gaffer
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« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2012, 06:21:38 PM » |
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efrenchy i found some from McMaster Carr that seems to be the right stuff http://www.mcmaster.com/#85385T885 that should put you to the catalogue page and open up the specific one (their web site kind of sucks for linking directly to it). thats the smallest size piece they have (12X12) but its 20 bucks so not a huge price
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efrenchy
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« Reply #12 on: April 22, 2012, 09:32:55 PM » |
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thanks gaffer!!! What do they use that for?
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gaffer
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« Reply #13 on: April 22, 2012, 09:39:13 PM » |
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probably a bunch of different screening and filtering applications. i think they use the same stuff for screen printing and stuff like that.
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Tango
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« Reply #14 on: April 23, 2012, 04:58:52 AM » |
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Hey efrenchy, I'm in the UK, sorry. Paid £7:99 plus £2 p/p for a full A4 size sheet, this will last for eons. Try ebay. 
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Lettie22
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« Reply #15 on: April 23, 2012, 07:18:34 AM » |
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For you USers -- I got mine from e-bay -- $5.99 for a 6" x 6" sheet, which I figure should make about 125 wicks (using Bazz' suggestion of 6mm x 30mm): http://www.ebay.com/itm/190664244850?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649I would be careful ordering from McMasters. I only say that because I have a Grainger's store here in town and they ordered some 400 mesh for me and when it came I knew it wasn't the correct stuff because it was so stiff and you could barely bend it. I'm thinking that McMasters would probably be the same. I guess the wire gauge was different in that product.
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gaffer
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« Reply #16 on: April 23, 2012, 12:57:20 PM » |
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For you USers -- I got mine from e-bay -- $5.99 for a 6" x 6" sheet, which I figure should make about 125 wicks (using Bazz' suggestion of 6mm x 30mm): http://www.ebay.com/itm/190664244850?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649I would be careful ordering from McMasters. I only say that because I have a Grainger's store here in town and they ordered some 400 mesh for me and when it came I knew it wasn't the correct stuff because it was so stiff and you could barely bend it. I'm thinking that McMasters would probably be the same. I guess the wire gauge was different in that product. the specs on that look very close just a tiny bit thicker wire and smaller openings except that it is 316 instead of 304 SS. Now i am not a great source of knowledge on steel (most of my metal training was non ferrous) but 316 i would expect to be stiffer than 304 because it has more chrome and nickel along with some Molybdenum which would make a stiffer steel (we use 316 in some of the glass blowing pipes due to the high corrosion resistance and stiffness especially when heated).
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Kenneth131
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« Reply #17 on: April 23, 2012, 03:38:11 PM » |
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I was up till 3am trying this lol
Well i got varied results using the LR and normal attys
With the LR attys I found that even with this method it didnt let enough liquid onto the coil so it just dry burned eventually and burnt the wick the coil is wrapped around.
With the normal attys I found I had better results
I also found better results again with attys i had used for a while as normal and then re wicked with the s/s wick.
so il see how i get on from now though
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Tango
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« Reply #18 on: April 24, 2012, 06:04:27 AM » |
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Can't comment on LR atties, don't use them. I have found that the length of wick and keeping the centre hole clear in S/S wick is essential. I roll the wick and place it in the spike to ensure ot is the correct length, level with the lower end of the slant. Push a thin straightened paper clip through the centre and oxidise as per video. Re-spike the atty and push the prepared S/S wick gently down until it touches the coil. Had one coil burn out but it was a heavily used atty but re-used the wick in another repair. So easy and less fiddly than silica ( glass fibre ). I am now getting a very decent lifespan and vaping experience out of the C-atties I have re-wicked, unlike the original silica wicked ones. Remember to do all prep work like trimming etc prior to oxidising the wick, once oxidised it is hard and will be damaged if you attempt to cut it. Hope this helps all aspiring re-wickers.
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Lettie22
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« Reply #19 on: April 24, 2012, 08:23:37 AM » |
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Can't comment on LR atties, don't use them. I have found that the length of wick and keeping the centre hole clear in S/S wick is essential. I roll the wick and place it in the spike to ensure ot is the correct length, level with the lower end of the slant. Push a thin straightened paper clip through the centre and oxidise as per video. Re-spike the atty and push the prepared S/S wick gently down until it touches the coil. Had one coil burn out but it was a heavily used atty but re-used the wick in another repair. So easy and less fiddly than silica ( glass fibre ). I am now getting a very decent lifespan and vaping experience out of the C-atties I have re-wicked, unlike the original silica wicked ones. Remember to do all prep work like trimming etc prior to oxidising the wick, once oxidised it is hard and will be damaged if you attempt to cut it. Hope this helps all aspiring re-wickers.
Tango, my S/S atties are about 5mm long, is that about what yours are? Also, I'm not sure what you mean by "re-spire the atty" above?
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Tango
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« Reply #20 on: April 24, 2012, 11:19:37 AM » |
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5mm is about right Lettie. Re-spike, means pushing the spike back into the atty body, then insert the prepared S/S wick. Is that OK? Sorry if I m confusing people, brain working faster than fingers. Bout right for me LOL 
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Lettie22
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« Reply #21 on: April 24, 2012, 12:47:30 PM » |
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5mm is about right Lettie. Re-spike, means pushing the spike back into the atty body, then insert the prepared S/S wick. Is that OK? Sorry if I m confusing people, brain working faster than fingers. Bout right for me LOL  No confusion, just wanted to be sure I got it all right. BTW, at least your thinking . . . I tell you sometimes me brain just don't work! 
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gutsy72
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« Reply #22 on: April 24, 2012, 01:46:15 PM » |
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probably a simple question for you guys but could i use this wick in a standard tornado tank atti or not?
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Lettie22
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« Reply #23 on: April 24, 2012, 03:54:42 PM » |
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probably a simple question for you guys but could i use this wick in a standard tornado tank atti or not?
I am quite sure you can. The Tornado and the ego-c atties are really the same. It's just with the c, you don't have to replace the whole cone.
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Tango
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« Reply #24 on: April 24, 2012, 05:55:52 PM » |
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Yep Gutsy, done a couple of Tornado tank atties, piece of cake and they work great. Just make sure you check out the video on S/S wick replacement. Only problem I had re-wicking a T atty was getting the thing back in the cone. I use an empty cartridge. Just like the C atty you have to make sure the wick plate is facing the right way. Best of luck.
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dano87
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« Reply #25 on: June 27, 2012, 08:53:49 AM » |
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^^^ awesome, i really want to try this, just need to procure the mesh. Its just 400 size mesh stainless steel right?
Yeah me too.
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RichJr
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« Reply #26 on: June 27, 2012, 08:22:44 PM » |
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Hi dano welcome to the forum.
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Rich (tech guru)  I do everything with my iPhone. Meep Meep
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mayummo
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« Reply #27 on: August 05, 2012, 06:41:48 PM » |
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What was used as the wick i have found mesh
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RichJr
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« Reply #28 on: August 05, 2012, 11:47:05 PM » |
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An old ce2 wick cut to size is ideal if you have one.
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Rich (tech guru)  I do everything with my iPhone. Meep Meep
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