10 Day Old Screwdriver MkII - Switch won't unscrew!

[gearscout]

Greetings,

I have a new Screwdriver MkII.  

I wasn't able to unscrew the switch assembly, using the technique of pressing a finger on the screw head when it first came, but I didn't worry about it.

Today, the unit stopped working.  I looked inside and the screw that serves as a contact for the battery circuit is completely black, save for the scored area meant to insert a flat blade screwdriver of the other kind.

I can't unscrew it.  Even using pliers to try to hold the button in place and scoring the outside of the button, it won't budge.  I scraped the head of that screw with a driver and yes, the unit will once again make contact...so that appears to be the problem.  I tried some WD40 to loosen it up -- but no joy.  I'm afraid if I clamp down harder on it, I'll just crush the plastic button.

What can I use to clean it in place.  Since it's less than 28 days old, I guess I can return it!

All that and I take off for a 10 day holiday in the morning.

Advice?

[Darth Vaper]

A little bit of wire wool or emery cloth inside while spinning the button should help get rid of the black deposits on the screws contact point. 

 

[VaporPhoxxe]

I found the same with one of my new SD's. buggered up the switch cap real good taking it off, seems to have been Loctited or something similar.
Guess it was done to address the the loose switch problem from the factory. Just a guess.

[capt12b]

I find cleaning the switch assembly dramatically improves performance , but not just the scored end, but the walls if the hole the rod passes through so the rod makes good connection to the body. I clean once a week. I don't understand why the the black button won't unscrew from the rod?  Righty tighty, lefty loosey - it has got to come apart - they are only hand tight.

[gearscout]

I find cleaning the switch assembly dramatically improves performance , but not just the scored end, but the walls if the hole the rod passes through so the rod makes good connection to the body. I clean once a week. I don't understand why the the black button won't unscrew from the rod?  Righty tighty, lefty loosey - it has got to come apart - they are only hand tight.

This is NOT hand tight!  Seems someone either glued it shut or it's locked on there tight. 

I used some sand paper and cleaned it up.  Also had some steel wool around, so that worked, too.  But at some point, I'm going to be hard pressed to removed this.

Thanks to EVERYONE for the suggestions!

;-)

[gearheadnick]

It's a bit over the top, but I have a suggestion as a last ditch attempt.  You could buy a new switch assembly, and remove the old one by any means necessary.  I'm talkin' bench vice, vice grips, drills, grinders, whatever it takes to get rid of the old one.  Like I said, it would be the last option.

Something a bit less extreme would be to buy a new switch anyway.  Then try to persuade your switch to come apart.  This way, if you do wind up breaking it, it's not so bad since you have a new one anyway.

I do the came thing with anything I'm working on, especially cars. If I have a part that doesn't comply, I get a replacement (just in case), and come hell or high water, it's going to cooperate 

[VaporPhoxxe]

I found the same with one of my new SD's. buggered up the switch cap real good taking it off, seems to have been Loctited or something similar.
Guess it was done to address the the loose switch problem from the factory. Just a guess.

Knowing what I know now in batteling my switch off, I would have tried to work the plastic cap off of the knurled metal part it is glued/pressed on to and then would have been able to get a good grip on it with pliers, etc.
Then just glue the cap back on later.
At least then the plastic cap would not have gotten messed up.

[Tyke]

I find cleaning the switch assembly dramatically improves performance , but not just the scored end, but the walls if the hole the rod passes through so the rod makes good connection to the body. I clean once a week. I don't understand why the the black button won't unscrew from the rod?  Righty tighty, lefty loosey - it has got to come apart - they are only hand tight.

I believe that Trog started making the buttons a LOT more than hand tight a while back, I'm pretty good with tools and I can't shift the button on my MK1, I gave up trying when it felt like I'd trash the button severely.

[trog100]

I find cleaning the switch assembly dramatically improves performance , but not just the scored end, but the walls if the hole the rod passes through so the rod makes good connection to the body. I clean once a week. I don't understand why the the black button won't unscrew from the rod?  Righty tighty, lefty loosey - it has got to come apart - they are only hand tight.

I believe that Trog started making the buttons a LOT more than hand tight a while back, I'm pretty good with tools and I can't shift the button on my MK1, I gave up trying when it felt like I'd trash the button severely.

this only applies to the MK1.. we simply tighten them up well in the factory.. we considered it a better option than them coming undone accidentally.. we dont over do it but hand tight isnt really good enough.. a pair of pliers with a round jaw indentation and some some wrag in the jaws will grip them without damaging the plastic button..

alternatively leave it all assembled and use some kind of cleaning solvent..a small squirt from the top would do.. i am not sure what solvent would be best to use..

trog

[Nick OTeen]

I find cleaning the switch assembly dramatically improves performance , but not just the scored end, but the walls if the hole the rod passes through so the rod makes good connection to the body. I clean once a week. I don't understand why the the black button won't unscrew from the rod?  Righty tighty, lefty loosey - it has got to come apart - they are only hand tight.

I believe that Trog started making the buttons a LOT more than hand tight a while back, I'm pretty good with tools and I can't shift the button on my MK1, I gave up trying when it felt like I'd trash the button severely.

this only applies to the MK1.. we simply tighten them up well in the factory.. we considered it a better option than them coming undone accidentally.. we dont over do it but hand tight isnt really good enough.. a pair of pliers with a round jaw indentation and some some wrag in the jaws will grip them without damaging the plastic button..

alternatively leave it all assembled and use some kind of cleaning solvent..a small squirt from the top would do.. i am not sure what solvent would be best to use..

trog

I think alcohol would probably be preferable to WD40 (not that there's any real likelihood of it getting into the airway.)
The green gunge that builds up on my threads is certainly ethanol-soluble.

[trog100]

WD40 is probably the biggest selling useless stuff on the planet..

so as an over the counter available product what would you suggest.. ?

trog

[Nick OTeen]

WD40 is probably the biggest selling useless stuff on the planet..

so as an over the counter available product what would you suggest.. ?

trog

meths would be a lot cheaper than the posh stuff (but then again, the posh stuff doubles up as a great juice additive )

[trog100]

so a bottle of meths from the chemist put into a dripper bottle would make a nice neat cheap cleaning agent.. meths being a good e liquid gunge solvent.. ??

trog

[Nick OTeen]

I wouldn't put it in a dripper bottle - too much scope to get confused (if you're as forgetful as I am,) and add it to your juice
A small, open-necked (properly labelled) jar would be easier, and gives you a big enough opening you can easily dip a Q-tip in (great for cleaning in nooks and crannies.)
And those (like the OP) who want to clean a sealed/jammed switch assembly etc. can pop the whole thing in the jar for a soak/swirl.

[trog100]

I wouldn't put it in a dripper bottle - too much scope to get confused (if you're as forgetful as I am,) and add it to your juice
A small, open-necked (properly labelled) jar would be easier, and gives you a big enough opening you can easily dip a Q-tip in (great for cleaning in nooks and crannies.)
And those (like the OP) who want to clean a sealed/jammed switch assembly etc. can pop the whole thing in the jar for a soak/swirl.

yep a complete SD switch end could be popped in a jar.. the atomizer end could just be partially dipped in.. i am looking for a fool proof and easy way of cleaning things... so we are looking at a small jar with some meths in it.. just general advice stuff.. meths does look like the stuff to use..

trog

[NikGrey]

I only had my SD for a couple of days but after reading this I decided to ensure my switch could be easily taken apart, there was absolutely no problem at all so I gave it a clean whilst it was apart.

Although the device was working very well - after this cleaning it is working even better if that was possible.. the switch is new as I have said and looks it but there must have been a slight film of something on it maybe even grease from a finger which was holding it up a little.

So, even when a device is new, take the switch apart and clean it.
people will want to take the switch apart in any case to attach the lanyard as this device is not pocket friendly unless you use the cap.